Off-piste skiing in Courchevel

It snowed all night. When I open the shutters in the morning, everything is white and silent. It’s exactly the kind of day that makes me want to go off the marked trails, carve my own lines, and savor that unique pleasure: the thrill of the first track.

Before each outing, the same habit:

1. I ask mountain professionals for information.

   I take the time to talk with those who live in the mountains every day: ski patrollers, guides, instructors… They are invaluable sources for understanding current avalanche activity and interpreting the Avalanche Risk Assessment Bulletin (BERA). Ski patrollers, in particular, have the most up-to-date information, based on preventive detonations and their daily observations in the field.

2. When all is clear, i pack my bag.

   The routine is always the same, almost mechanical: Checked and switched-on avalanche transceiver, shovel, probe and means of communication. Simple, but essential for every outing.

3. I never go off on my own.

   If I'm not with experienced friends, I much prefer to call on a guide or ski instructor: it's reassuring, and you learn a lot in the field.

4. On the spot, I take a few more minutes to check conditions.

   Weather, wind, temperatures... and of course the BERA. Depending on snow and weather conditions, certain directions or slopes will be more or less dangerous. It's with these elements in mind that I adapt my itinerary.

It's only once these stages have been ticked off that I make the decision to go for it. Sometimes I give up, because the conditions are too risky, or simply because I don't feel like it, that's part of the game... but today it's ok, the mountain is playable.

As soon as I leave the marked trails, I feel it immediately: the atmosphere changes. No more signs, no more safety nets—wild nature unfolds before me. Silence grows deeper and the snow is untouched. The feeling of freedom is immediate, with this untouched landscape making the moment truly special.

In Courchevel, sometimes it only takes a few meters off the pistes for me to step into another world and feel that sense of freedom. The fresh, untouched snow crunches under my skis, the silence of the mountain surrounds me, and every turn becomes a choice I get to make. Some lines require more commitment, but I always keep in mind that the mountain is never truly safe. Certain areas have been closed by the piste service for our safety, and I make sure to respect them. As I descend, I stay alert to every movement, every contour: the tracks left by other skiers can guide me, but they never guarantee my safety.

I take the time to stop, breathe, and take in the mountain around me. I listen to the silence, study the terrain, and talk with others to share impressions and advice. Before each line, I make sure I know the route well and assess the snow conditions and risks, which can change from day to day or season to season. I also check that I can be located if needed. And if even the slightest doubt remains, I don’t hesitate to turn back. For me, off-piste skiing isn’t about performance—it’s about clarity and respect for the mountain.

For me, enjoying the mountain means feeling every turn under my skis, thinking through each move, staying aware of my surroundings, and respecting nature. It’s this attention that lets my off-piste days end with a smile, a light heart… and no fear.

In short, off-piste starts long before you put on your shoes :

• Know how to use your avalanche transceiver.

• Train regularly so that gestures become automatic.

• And take the time to get the right information from mountain professionals.

What I love about off-piste skiing is the feeling of moving through a wilder mountain. The wind on my face, untouched snow under my skis, and a silence sometimes broken only by the crack of ice or the wind moving through the trees… But I never forget that I’m not alone here. As soon as I leave the marked runs, I step into a living environment. I often spot animal tracks in the fresh snow, catch sight of a chamois standing on a ridge, or see a mountain hare vanish between the trees. These fleeting encounters remind me that I’m only passing through their territory.

Around Courchevel, some off-piste areas are home to fragile wildlife, including the black grouse, an iconic species of the Alps. In winter, when snow covers everything and food becomes scarce, it is particularly vulnerable: even a single skier passing through can force it to flee and waste precious energy.

That’s why quiet zones have been established to protect it. They are clearly marked on the piste map, and I always take the time to identify them before heading out. Even when the slope looks perfect and the snow is tempting, I choose to stay away. These areas exist to let the mountain breathe, and accepting to give up a line is part of respecting this fragile balance.

By protecting these zones, we protect far more than a single species. The black grouse is an umbrella species: preserving its habitat means preserving an entire ecosystem. For me, off-piste skiing is also about accepting these rules.

One example often comes to mind: the quiet zone beneath the Aiguille du Fruit chairlift. As I reach the top, I slow down. The slope looks inviting, the snow calls for speed, and yet I lift my eyes. Below me, young trees already shape a refuge for black grouse. More than 1,000 have been planted here. It would be easy to ski straight through, to draw a line without thinking… but I choose to step aside and leave this area untouched.

A little further on, the mountain opens up again. The snow is light, the turns flow naturally, and I rediscover that raw off-piste pleasure, where each line is built turn after turn. As long as I’m prepared and respectful, the options remain endless, and the sense of freedom never fades.

At the end of the day, skiing back down toward the resort, I feel that gentle fatigue and a deep sense of calm. I’ve enjoyed the mountain without forcing it. Off-piste skiing offers immense freedom, but it only truly makes sense when paired with responsibility. Taking the time to gather information, to be properly equipped, and to respect sensitive areas: these are the choices that make off-piste skiing more intense, more meaningful, and safer.